Waterzooi is odd thing to eat on arrival in Beijing, but it turns out to be a perfect dish when one is fresh off a three-flight trip from Hawaii. Here’s Julia Child’s recipe: http://www.nytimes.com/1987/05/17/dining/19870517child.html, and many thanks to Phil Baguet for his rendition. We drank Australian wine and then a French dessert wine I’d brought from Massachusetts, bought at Berry Brothers & Rudd in London some years ago.

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